Three is a lucky number for Bernadetta and Michał, and crows are one of their favourite birds. Soon huge photographs of crows will hang on the Trzy Kruki (Three Crows) walls. They have not cluttered the space as they are both fans of the austere architecture of the 50s. Just like in the case of Drożdż in Muranów, the interior here is not spacious, yet very high with big windows. A unique facet (colourful frieze) discovered during the renovation works adds further spice to the atmosphere of this place. Not to mention a wooden diagonal counter designed by the owners.
In a menu, you can find mainly coffee and sweet pastry. Everything of the best quality from Miss Mellow, Good Coffee, and Rezerwat Jabłek. The owners are real enthusiasts and always set the bar high. And since they value slow life they like meeting with producers, confectioners, talking and building friendly relations with their suppliers. And at the end of the day, it all pays off when it comes to creating a cozy atmosphere at Trzy Kruki.
Despite the difficult beginnings when the neighbours tried to discourage them from opening the cafe saying that if they didn’t come from Praga, they were certainly doomed to fail, nowadays, they have their regulars who drop by with kids and dogs, for a quick morning coffee, a sandwich to take away or just to sit and work.
We keep our fingers crossed because Hallera Square is an exquisite place that has been so far unlucky with revitalization. It has been partially renovated – new benches, public outdoor gym, playground for children. Ugly as they seem, they work quite fine. There are many elderly people who spend time outside, kids who like playing, climbing up the trees and riding bicycles here. And when a graduation tower was erected within the participatory budget, one can indeed feel like in some sort of a health resort.
Hallera Square already has a perfect architectural design concept, granted from the “Centra Lokalne” programme, which awaits execution. Just change the rules of parking in the square, add some greenery, divide commercial space into smaller units so that the tenants could afford to run attractive cafes and shops here. This place is already worth visiting because of pizza at Plac Hallera or dinners at Kuchnia za Ścianą. Let’s hope for more such pleasant incentives.
Trzy Kruki, Hallera Square 8, Mon 9 AM-5 PM, Tue-Thur 8 AM-7 PM, Sat 10 AM-8 PM, Sun 10 AM-6 PM.
“Rhythm, groove and world music – not the one associated with Sting or Peter Gabriel, but focused more on African villages and junkyards – these are the basic elements defining JAVVA”. This description convinces us.
Burakowska St 12
We Love Afrobeat at Pogłos
The night of the African and Latin rhythms with Save Afrobeat in Warsaw!
Palace of Culture and Science
Defilad Square 1
God is a Woman at barStudio
Songs sung by women, written by women, made for women.
Puławska St 113a
Hello, This is Planet Earth – performance at Agnieszka Brzeżańska’s exhibition at Królikarnia
Artistic performance by Maria Magdalena Kozłowska. Before the show, we recommend visiting Agnieszka Brzeżańska’s exhibition “The Whole Earth is a National Park”.
W Orbicie Słońca
Marszałkowska St 45/49
Henrietta at W Orbicie Słońca
Duet concert by Piotr Radzio (ex Szron) and Sonia Wąsowska (lyrics).
Nowy Świat St 21
tickets: 89 PLN
Kindness at Niebo
Kindness is the British musician and producer who worked with Solange, Robyn or Blood Orange.
Eco lifestyle does not necessarily have to be expensive, dull and full of sacrifices. There is a growing number of products that do not harm the environment and yet are a pleasure for the senses. You just need to drop by to The Basic Market, the newly opened shop in Mokotów to find out about it.
Jagoda Gierałtowska is an owner and runs the shop. Previously she studied fashion journalism in London and cooperated with the Polish edition of Harper’s Bazaar. When she was considering setting up her own business she found a gap in our market. In London, she saw numerous shops with design and cosmetics which allowed to reduce plastic. Warsaw is still missing such types of shops. We can buy cosmetics in drugstores, reusable cups in cafes, but is it good to have everything collected in one place.
“The word basic means elementary and essential. That is why articles in our shop are selected so that customers could collect what is needed to live in harmony with nature”, says Jagoda. She carefully reads labels, verifies the credibility of the manufacturers and tests most of the products herself. The majority of them are produced outside Poland in England, Germany, the United States or Switzerland. However, day by day more and more eco-friendly products are being manufactured in our country. At The Basic Market, we can buy soaps, shampoo bars and deodorants by 4 Szpaki, reusable organic cotton pads by Mamy Natury, dishwasher or washing powders by Balja, cleaning products by Klareko, candles by Glyk Company and bowls made of wood wastes by Wood Spot.
Foreign products are sold at reasonable prices unless they are designer products that are highly desired and showcased at the most important design museums. We were fascinated by foreign products, for example, Kuro-Bō activated carbon water filters, feather-light reusable bottles by Swiss SIGG, rCup travel cups made from recycled single-use cups, Swedish 3 in 1 cutlery by Light My Fire, jute bowls by the British company ReSpijn. We could go on and on.
If you still hesitate and you are not sure if it is necessary to use reusable shopping bags, biodegradable waste sacks, reusable razors with replaceable blades, toothpaste pills just visit The Basic Market, look around and don’t be afraid to ask questions. It is worth making this effort.
New Asfalt in Tamka Street is a real blast! You will not find the shop in Kredytowa Street anymore as it has moved here for good. And it is a good choice since Tamka Street, Powiśle and Solec are getting more and more interesting these days. It is also a popular route if you want to get from the city centre to the Vistula river.
Asfalt Coffee & Vinyl is not a regular shop but also a pretty spacious café. There are even two separate counters for ordering coffee and buying records. There is a wide range of hip-hop music released by Asfalt Records (O.S.T.R., Otsochodzi or Taco Hemingway), but not only. Rap is dominant here however, there is jazz, electro, and good Polish music as well. Apart from vinyl records, there are also CDs and photo albums.
It is nice to see in the café porcelain mugs designed by Fenek, Asfalts’s neighbours from Tamka Street and custom made plates resembling vinyl records crafted by Ani Ani Studio. Kommunikat Studio is responsible for visual identification of the place. The café is open from 8:30 AM and serves fine coffee, patisserie by Formy Proste and sandwiches by Aromat. It offers also meetings with artists and culinary events, for example, Kwaśnie Jabłko cider testing.
This vinyl and coffee concept introduced in Warsaw by Hałas has won our hearts. We will be regulars here for sure.
In the preface to your book, you state that smog has been neglected for a long time, however the moment we have become aware of its presence we can’t stop thinking about it. When did you reach a breaking point?
I think when our child was born and ended up twice in a hospital because of breathing problems during the first year of life. Or the day when I came back from a walk with my dog and my wife asked me if I had started smoking again because my clothes and hair smelled really bad. Even though I had been writing about smog before I got scared in winter 2016/17.
Where do you live?
In Zacisze, in one of those detached houses. There are not only luxurious houses here, where people install fireplaces for pure pleasure but there are also poor houses from the 30s where people use coal, to keep warm and heat the water.
Do you remember your first article on smog?
In 2008 I wrote about researches conducted by Artur Badyda, Ph.D. who proved that living in Warsaw can be detrimental to the lungs. He started studying this subject and its relation to human health as the first scholar at the Technical University. A real scientist with a mission. He demonstrated that when you live in Tamka Street or Niepodległości Avenue you are up to four times more likely to be affected with chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD), a very severe lung disease, than someone who lives in a village and enjoys fresh air.
Do you know the reason for this indifference and denial? I am fully aware of the political mechanisms so I can understand why politicians don’t see the problem. But citizens? It is as if we lived in an apartment built of carcinogenic materials and pretended that nothing bad was happening.
Maybe because we tend to think we are helpless. This is how this mechanism works, that it has always been like this or that it used to be even worse in the past. This is what I hear from elderly people.
However, there is also an interesting tendency that those who drive cars don’t see that they contribute to smog formation and blame those who use polluting stoves. And vice versa. Those who use stoves say: firstly do something with these old diesel cars and then we will take care of our stoves.And this type of discussion goes also among educated people. I tend to ask affluent people in Wilanów: so you like your fireplace, don’t you? Do you know that your smog is no different?
Say something more about these fireplaces.
Wood emits harmful substances too. In Warsaw, there is a regulation that you can use wood however, the moisture content of the wood should be below 20 percent. So you cannot use wet wood. But show me someone who has instruments to control this. It is widely accepted that if the wood is seasoned one can use it.
I used to visit tenement houses in Praga. The Estate and Construction Management Agency (ZGN) claims that there are no heaters in the building because they were fully decommissioned. In practice, these heaters are still being used contrary to a prohibition. So not only do people use them but are also exposed to higher risks of fires.
How to attract and retain the attention of the politicians, make them react? Is going out on the streets a good idea?
In Kraków, hundreds of people went on an anti-smog strike in 2013. It forced the city council to introduce changes and today there is a ban on solid fuel burning. There are more and more organizations and individual activists who file suits against the local governments and central power, dress statues in masks, encourage neighbours to replace their coal polluting heaters. In Warsaw, we have the Warsaw Without Smog organization, which is a part of the Polish Smog Alarm, Wawer Smog, and Warsaw Smog Alarm.
Why do we lag behind Kraków so much? Can’t we just follow their lead?
It’s a good question. It seemed natural that since the process of replacing heaters was getting to the end in Kraków, one could employ specialists who were working there. However, the problem in Kraków was bigger, more tangible, almost fifty thousand heaters mostly in the very centre. Fireplaces were banned, too. There mustn’t be any smoke in the city. Here, there is an obligation to replace old coal polluting heaters by the end of 2022. Of course the worst ones. However, there is a way we can replace the old heaters for such types which are in line with the standards of the ecology project, but they will be still coal heaters. For now, we cannot expect a total ban on using coal in Warsaw nevertheless, the activists have come up with a petition. The Warsaw and voivodship authorities ensure that they are taking into consideration this option, but we don’t know what will be the outcome.
It is unbelievable how local politicians are afraid of taking decisions that would have country-wide consequences. I understand that in Silesia these decisions are tough but what about here?
Indeed, especially that we have the most extensive district heating system in the European Union. We can contribute to the bills of the poorest residents, who cannot be connected to the district heating network but they will start using electric heating.
Having read your recent article it came to me as a shock to learn that only a small number of local heaters disappeared in recent years and the number is constantly increasing.
It is not about that the new heaters are being installed but this year the city council has counted more precisely the heaters in their buildings. In Targówek there are 90, in Włochy 130 more than last year. The officials felt offended by the article because all in all 350 heaters were demolished, 500 are planned to be demolished by the end of the year. So they are doing something. However, after the recalculations conducted by the Property Management Department (ZGN) it turned out that there are more heaters to be demolished than it had been estimated a year ago.
I know how it all works from the inside out. I used to visit tenement houses in Praga. The Estate and Construction Management Agency (ZGN) claims that there are no heaters in the building because they were fully decommissioned. In practice, these heaters are still being used contrary to a prohibition. So not only do people use them but are also exposed to higher risks of fires. Out of six hundred tenement houses in Praga, only a few are being connected to the district heating system. In Praga Południe this year 20 out of 362 tenement houses will be connected to central heating. These are of course neither easy nor cheap investments but at this pace, it may take a while. And this situation is happening only two kilometres away from Bankowy Square.
Cars have triggered strong emotions, too.
At the end of 2018 in Warsaw, there were over 1,5 million registered cars. The next half enters and leaves the city every day. This traffic should be regulated in some way. The question is how. There are numerous ways. We can do it the Swedish or London way and introduce paid access to the city. There is also the German method to prevent the oldest and the most harmful diesel cars from entering the centre. We should conduct a thorough analysis and propose paid parking zones, various fees. How many people will be willing to choose public transport, how much it will bring funds to buy new buses or trams, how it will limit the exhaust emissions. Then we will be able to discuss the details. Right now, when we hear “limit the cars in the city centre” we all have something different in mind.
We should also take into consideration the social costs of such limitations. The most affluent will afford to enter the city centre. However, consider how many professionals, nurses, blue-collar workers commute to work. For example from Ostrowia Mazowiecka there is no train to Warsaw. Buses from the nearby smaller cities have been canceled. My friend lives 30 kilometres from Warsaw. It takes him about 2 hours to commute to the University. He gets on a bus at 6 o’clock. If he was able to afford an old Golf and get to the city in 40 minutes probably he would choose this option. It turns out that building underground is not the only necessity. It is important to take care of an effective transport system in the entire region of Mazovia.
Has something changed under Trzaskakowski, the mayor of Warsaw, when it comes to smog? Is Justyna Glusman responsible for this issue?
She is responsible for low emission smog. She stresses that transport and investments (i.e. car smog) are Robert Soszyński’s domain. After the election, one year passed by rather ineffectively because all new employees were undergoing training. For example, it was the time when the new Department of Air Protection was being formed.New regulations concerning polluting heaters were being prepared. From October you can apply for subsidiaries that will help you replace old and inefficient stoves.No heaters have been removed yet but people seem to be interested. It’s undeniably a step in a good direction. It is a shame it took so long. It should have happened two or three years before that when the activists had been talking about it. We have wasted a lot of time.
What can each of us do?
Those who have heaters must replace them. It is neither easy, nor cheap, but they have to comply with the regulations. It is almost about twenty thousand households in Warsaw. I would advise all people who use fireplaces to leave their comfort zone and give up luxury. It is easy, you can do without fireplaces which you use to create a romantic atmosphere. There are drivers left, who are the most resistant when it comes to giving up their vehicles. Some people drive out of laziness, some just have to use cars. During all this process we should also think about the poorest residents who will mostly be affected by the ecology changes. We should all help them go through this.
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As the only ones, we publish news both in Polish and English and keep you up to date with the current events happening in the city. We show you new places and interesting people. We recommend what to do at the weekend.
We publish books as well. So far we have issued two editions of a bilingual guide entitled “Warszawa Warsaw” and a guide on local gastronomy, “Culinary Warsaw”, commissioned by the City Council. Our publications stand for high quality design and photographs. No wonder, since Mamastudio, one of the best design studios in the city, is responsible for the artistic side! We also run Autor Rooms which is a member of the prestigious Design Hotels group.
Warsaw is our love and passion. We feel that together we are creating the city one wants to live in. That is why if you want to go on a shopping spree in Warsaw, do it with our “Shopping” guide!